Abundance of history and nature to unearth in Bermuda - Toronto Sun

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Oct 04, 2022 • 38 minutes ago • 4 minute read • Join the conversation

A prime view of Mangrove Bay from the infinity-edged pool at Cambridge Beaches in Bermuda. CYNTHIA MCLEOD/TORONTO SUN

“It never rains in Bermuda – it’s liquid sunshine,” my guide Larry says as the “liquid sunshine” drips down the windshield of his van.

All day every day can’t always be perfect for soaking up rays on Bermuda’s famous pink-sand beaches or exploring its coral reefs with a snorkel, but discovering its fascinating — albeit troubled — history along with its natural wonders is a good use of “liquid sunshine” time.

A top place to launch your dive into Bermuda’s past is the National Museum of Bermuda (nmb.bm), located in the country’s largest fort, the Keep, at the Royal Navy Dockyard in the western Sandys Parish. The museum chronicles 500 years of Bermuda’s history and culture, including the development of the trans-Atlantic slave trade after its settlement in 1612 and emancipation in August 1834.

The Commissioner’s House sits on a hill of the Keep at the Royal Navy Dockyard. CYNTHIA MCLEOD/TORONTO SUN

“Chilling reminders of a brutal era are revealed through many artifacts recovered from Bermuda wreck sites,” signage informs visitors upon arrival at the restored Commissioner’s House. Save time as well for the former ammunition storehouse with high vaulted brick ceilings that now exhibits shipwreck artifacts.

The nation’s history of slavery is recounted at the National Museum of Bermuda. CYNTHIA MCLEOD/TORONTO SUN

Nearby is Scaur Hill Fort and Park, which offers a great panoramic view of Bermuda as well as walking trails and historical remnants. The fort was built in the late 1860s to defend the Royal Naval Dockyard after the U.S. Civil War as Bermuda had traded with the Confederates and feared possible attack. (There wasn’t one, of course.)

Gibbs Hill Lighthouse opened in 1846 on a 75-metre-tall hill. CYNTHIA MCLEOD/TORONTO SUN

Another of Bermuda’s 19^th-century marvels is the iconic cast-iron Gibbs Hill Lighthouse (bermudalighthouse.com). Opened in 1846 on a 75-metre-tall hill, it’s still in use today — with a 1,000-watt electric bulb that casts a beam seen by ships 65 km away. Before its construction on the western end of the main island, ships used to wreck as the reefs extend 25 km or more out to sea. Visitors can climb the 185 steps to the top, but be aware the outside deck is pretty tiny on floor space — the view is amazing though.

A spectacular view from Gibbs Hill Lighthouse. CYNTHIA MCLEOD/TORONTO SUN

St. George’s was the first permanent settlement in 1612 and the capital of Bermuda until 1815. Historical landmarks are abundant as you stroll the streets including the picturesque ruins of the Unfinished Church. Construction on the church began in 1864 to replace St. Peter’s church after hurricane damage but was never completed due to parish politics, finances and finally a tornado that took off most of the roof in 1925. The Gothic remains are free to the public and often serve as a dramatic wedding venue (office8676.wixsite.com/mysite-1/venue).

The archways and weathered grey stone of the Gothic-style Unfinished Church in St. George’s is a photographer’s dream. CYNTHIA MCLEOD/TORONTO SUN

Don’t leave St. George’s without dining at Whitehorse Pub and Restaurant (whitehorsebermuda.com). Bermuda’s oldest pub, since 1930, I really enjoyed a trio of musicians providing entertainment on a floating dock as green lights highlighted a school of fish. There’s also satellite TV for sports – a Leafs program was even on during our dinner. Try the fish chowder served with black rum, sherry pepper and Bermudian Jonny cake.

In addition to Bermuda’s history is its mystery, and that’s where the Ocean Discovery Centre (hbuei.bm) comes in. An exhibit analyzes the myth of the Bermuda Triangle, exploring the timeline of air and sea disappearances and various theories such as rogue waves, magnetic field, clouds, and human error. Of course, along with the real science far-fetched theories like aliens, wormholes and Atlantis get dissected too as possible explanations.

The centre’s Shipwreck Gallery looks at the work of late diving legend Teddy Tucker and the amazing treasures he found. More than 300 ships fell victim to its reefs. There’s also a room exhibiting a private collection of more than 1,200 shells from around the world.

At the Bermuda Aquarium Museum and Zoo (bamz.org), learn about the Sargasso Sea surrounding Bermuda, the different types of reefs, and the hundreds of species of marine life. Balloonfish, eels, spiny lobster, and harbour seals are among the species featured.

At the Crystal Cave, stalactites surround a clear underground lake 16 metres deep. CYNTHIA MCLEOD/TORONTO SUN

Head underground to marvel at the Crystal Cave (caves.bm/crystal-caves), in which you walk along a floating pontoon pathway over a clear lake surrounded by crystal formations of every size and shape that have been formed over millions of years. It really is a marvel of Mother Nature.

WHERE TO STAY

A Bermuda icon, Cambridge Beaches Resort and Spa (cambridgebeaches.com) is the archipelago’s first cottage-style resort since 1923.

Positioned on about nine hectares in Sandys Parish, the dog-legged property separates Long Bay from Mangrove Bay and is tucked away from the crowds, giving guests the perfect spot to recharge and smell the hibiscus.

Stop and smell the hibiscus at Cambridge Beaches Resort and Spa in Bermuda. CYNTHIA MCLEOD/TORONTO SUN

With more than 80 suites, each with private outdoor space and waterfront views, the pink-coloured resort lures back a loyal following of repeat visitors, some of whom have returned dozens of times.

There are four private beaches, an infinity swimming pool overlooking Mangrove Bay, Bermuda’s only onsite water sports marina, and a spa with indoor pool.

Relax with a Dark ’n’ Stormy cocktail while dining alfresco at Breezes restaurant at Cambridge Beaches in Bermuda. CYNTHIA MCLEOD/TORONTO SUN

The popular Breezes beachfront restaurant is alfresco dining at its finest. Sip on a Dark and Stormy cocktail as you look out at the water and marvel at the cloud formations over the sea.

IF YOU GO

Pause to check out Somerset Bridge, the world’s smallest drawbridge at 56-cm wide, which connects Somerset Island – home to Cambridge Beaches, Fort Scaur, and the Royal Naval Dockyard — with the main island. It dates back to 1620 and is just wide enough for a sailboat’s mast.

Somerset Bridge dates to 1620 and is just wide enough for a sailboat’s mast. CYNTHIA MCLEOD/TORONTO SUN

Instead of a drive, at least once try the ferry to Hamilton from the Royal Navy Dockyard for ocean breezes and great views of the capital city.

A moongate in downtown Hamilton where wishes are said to come true. CYNTHIA MCLEOD/TORONTO SUN

Be sure to walk through one of the island’s moongates. The round opening made of limestone believed to bring good luck traces its roots to China. Newlyweds who walk through hand in hand are said to find happiness, while even singles or anyone else can step through and make a wish.

Find out more at gotobermuda.com.